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Arctic Cat’s Prowler XTX

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Arctic Cat’s Prowler XTX

By Cody Fletcher

Arctic Cat’s sales success in the UTV industry has been monumental since the introduction of the Prowler XT in 2006. Combining sporty features while not losing any of its functional “work” qualities, the highly agile Prowler line is chock full of all the rugged functionality found on an Arctic Cat ATV, but packaged in a chassis scaled for power, maneuverability and ease of side-by-side driving. For 2008 Arctic Cat expands to a three model lineup with the addition of the Prowler XTX 700 H1 EFI.

The cab of every Prowler is equipped with dual bucket seats and driver/passenger seat belts, a center console complete with drink holders, and dual 12v accessory plugs. The open air cab has a full canopy and various storage compartments like a dash-mounted tray shelf, glove box with door, and an easily accessible molded tool kit located under the passenger seat.

Keeping true to Arctic Cat ATV heritage, the Prowler was designed to conquer any job when it comes to storage and hauling capacities. Lift the hood on any Prowler and you will find a storage compartment that can hold 25 lbs. of hunting supplies or tools. It also doubles as a cooler to store ice. The composite cargo bed resists rust and cracking, so you can throw in 600 lbs. (325 lbs. for XTX) of the harshest payloads and the Prowler won’t even whimper.

Hardcore jobs and hardcore fun are only executed when provided with Arctic Cat-built engines, drivetrain, and suspension systems. Born and bred at Arctic Cat, you can now choose between two powerhouse motors: the 650H1, a 641cc, 4- stroke torque monster; or the new 700 H1 EFI, a 695cc, 4- stroke with Electronic Fuel Injection for positive performance in most temperature or elevation changes. The Duramatic automatic transmission has dynamic engine braking with Low, High, Neutral, and Reverse. The Prowler is just as easy to use as an Arctic Cat ATV; just gas it and go.

Arctic Cat engineers have laid to rest the claims of “best” suspension travel and ground clearance by other manufacturers. The front and rear suspensions are fully independent with a double A-arm front design and a double A-arm rear design with 10” of suspension travel for sure-footed offroad prowess. Spring preload adjustable shocks are used on all four corners for the ultimate in terrain and load adjustability, while off-roading capabilities are enhanced by 13” of ground clearance, a front locking 4WD differentia, l and rear-mounted swaybar for improved trail driving. Those wanting a more turf-friendly UTV will love the new Prowler XTX with Turf Saving Auto Locking rear differential – The rear differential remains open unless wheel slip is sensed, then both rear wheels lock for improved traction with no buttons or levers to pull like the competition.

Cast aluminum 14” wheels with black painted inlays are standard on the XT and XTX. Steel 14” wheels come standard with the Prowler. All of the Arctic Cat units are stocked with 26X8R14 Goodyear MTR front tires and 26×11R14 Goodyear MTRs in the rear for the ultimate in off-road traction.

Once again, Arctic Cat provides a new category entrant that holds true to the “More to Go On” slogan. The Prowler lineup provides more comfort, more motor choices and more fun in a variety of prices. The Prowler is just as easy to use as an Arctic Cat ATV; just gas it and go.

Popularity: 25% [?]

Posted in All Entries, Archive Articles, News, Prowler, Side X Side ModelsComments (0)

How to Increase your RZR’s Speed

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How to Increase your RZR’s Speed

It is becoming increasingly more popular for RZR owners to modify their units by removing the plastic spacer that is on the crank shaft in the drive clutch assembly. This can increase an RZR’s top speed by as much as 10 MPH.

The RZR’s transmission is a pulley based constant velocity transmission (PVT) that consists of three major assemblies: the drive clutch, the driven clutch, and the drive belt. The drive clutch and the driven clutch both consist of two conical- shaped pulley halves called sheaves. The transmission operates by sensing centrifugal force that causes shift weights to push against rollers that push the moveable sheave closer to the other sheave to pinch the drive belt. The closer the two sheaves are pushed together the further out the belt is pushed.

Removal of this spacer allows the two sheaves to come completely together where the belt would move out to the largest diameter on the sheaves. We have found this will increase an RZR’s top speed anywhere from 5-10 MPH. Some will say this is going against the original design of the transmission, but we speculate that it was designed without the spacer and was added later as an easy way to limit the RZR’s top speed for liability reasons. We have heard some arguments that removal of this spacer will decrease the life of your drive belts, but we have yet to have any issues. A proper break-in period at lower speeds for the first 100 miles on a new RZR or after a new belt is installed is highly recommended to ensure a longer belt life.

Removal of the plastic limiting spacer is a simple process that requires a clutch compression tool which can be purchased through your local Polaris dealer (part # 8700220).

1. Remove driver and passenger seats.

2. Remove panel that is behind the seats to gain access to the outer clutch cover.

3. Remove the push rivets and fasteners holding the rear seat base and remove from vehicle.

4. With a screw driver, loosen the clamp that holds the clutch outlet duct to the clutch cover and slide it off.

5. Remove outer clutch cover screws and remove clutch cover.

6. Remove drive clutch assembly by removing the clutch retaining bolt that threads into the crank shaft. (Facing the rear of the vehicle, the drive clutch is the clutch assembly on the left.) To remove the clutch retaining bolt you will need to secure the drive clutch assembly (a.k.a. the spider cage) to keep it from spinning. A wooden hammer handle slipped into the spider cage works well for this. The clutch assembly is pressed onto the crank shaft and can be fairly easy to knock loose by tapping on it with a rubber hammer. (This is where the factory service manual would tell you to use a drive clutch puller, which you can order through your local dealer, part # PA-48595.)

7. Once the drive clutch assembly is removed, take it to a workbench where you can install a spring compression tool. Once it is clamped down, you can loosen the 6 3/8’s bolts that hold the clutch cover plate. Once the bolts are removed, you can then loosen the spring compression tool (unloading the clutch spring) and then remove the cover plate. Before removing the cover plate, use a permanent marker to mark where it is aligned with the drive clutch assembly. They need to be bolted back together the same way because it is the way they were balanced from the factory.

8. After the cover plate has been removed you can slide the main clutch spring off and then remove the plastic spacer that sat inside it.

9. With the plastic spacer now removed, slide the clutch spring back on; then, with the clutch spring tool, compress the assembly back together until you can get the 3/8’s bolts started. Tighten them the rest of the way torqued to 20 ft. pounds.

10. Reinstall sheave assembly by sliding it back onto the crank shaft; then reinstall the clutch retaining bolt that threads into the crank shaft. Be sure you have the lock washer, thick washer, and the plastic collar on the way they came off making sure the plastic collar centers in the clutch shaft as you tighten. This bolt needs to be torqued to 40 ft. pounds.

Tech Information provided by:

RZR Headquarters


Popularity: 19% [?]

Posted in All Entries, Archive Articles, News, Ranger RZR, Side X Side ModelsComments (0)

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